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BORAGE SEED OIL/HYDROGENATED BORAGE SEED OIL ESTERS.

Essential CAS - / SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN PROTECTING

This ingredient, derived from borage seed oil through hydrogenation for enhanced stability, delivers beneficial omega-6 fatty acids to the skin. It acts as a multi-functional emollient, antioxidant, and skin protectant, effectively supporting skin health.

Emollient Antioxidant Soothing Skin Protectant Barrier Support

Science

Rich in Gamma-Linolenic Acid (GLA), it converts to DGLA, a precursor to anti-inflammatory PGE1, and inhibits leukotriene synthesis. It restores stratum corneum lipids, boosts ceramide 1 and filaggrin, and helps normalize skin pH, thus enhancing barrier function and hydration.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.05–10%
Optimal

0.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Significantly decreased melasma and showed visible skin brightening after 6 and 8 weeks in an 8-week clinical trial with 21 women.
  2. 02 Effective in reducing irritation and/or stinging caused by hydroxy acids and/or retinoids.
  3. 03 Normalized skin barrier function and reduced inflammation in infants and children with seborrheic or atopic dermatitis.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Hydrogenation enhances stability, but proper storage in cool, dry, sealed conditions away from light is crucial to prevent oxidation and rancidity. It should be incorporated into the oil phase of emulsions or anhydrous formulations.

Synergies

  • Reduces irritation from hydroxy acids and retinoids

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

While generally well-tolerated, source borage oil must be certified pyrrolizidine alkaloid (PA)-free to avoid hepatotoxic risks. Oral borage oil is contraindicated during pregnancy, though specific topical ester safety in pregnancy is not detailed.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Essential

This versatile ingredient is essential for comprehensive skin health, offering significant barrier support, anti-inflammatory effects, and visible brightening while minimizing irritation.


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