Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as an organogelator by establishing a three-dimensional physical network through its dilinoleic acid and ethylenediamine backbone. When dispersed in hydrophobic solvents, its long-chain amide end-caps create a microscopic lattice that stabilizes oils and forms a cohesive, occlusive film on the skin's surface, effectively reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and anchoring pigments.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Clinical evaluation of lip serum formulations demonstrated up to 4 hours of continuous hydration and significantly reduced pigment feathering.
- 02 Testing on keratinous substrates confirmed the formation of a non-sticky, water-resistant shield at concentrations between 1-5%.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While effective as a viscosity modifier at very low levels, its primary benefits for moisture retention and film-forming typically require concentrations above 1%.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Thermally stable up to 42°C; requires heating to 88°C–94°C during the oil-phase preparation for proper incorporation.
Synergies
- Non-polar oils
- Lipophilic pigments
- Sunscreen filters
Conflicts
- Highly hydrophilic systems
- Purely water-based serums
Safety
Safety Profile
Due to its high molecular weight, the polymer does not penetrate the skin barrier, ensuring a high safety profile even at elevated concentrations.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional structuring agent for oil-based delivery systems that provides durable hydration and superior product architecture without compromising skin breathability.
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References
Sources