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BIS-CETEARAMIDOETHYLDIETHONIUM SUCCINOYL HYDROLYZED KERATIN.

Valuable / HAIR CONDITIONING

A bio-engineered keratin derivative designed to act as a 'liquid cuticle' by mimicking 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA). This advanced conditioning agent repairs the protective F-layer of hair and the lipid barrier of the skin through targeted structural restoration.

Barrier Repair Skin Conditioning Hair Restructuring Humectant

Science

Utilizing a cationic (positively charged) framework, this molecule selectively adheres to damaged, negatively charged sites on the skin and hair. By replicating the natural 18-MEA lipid, it restores essential hydrophobicity and reinforces the physical barrier, significantly lowering transepidermal water loss and smoothing the surface texture.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.6–5%
Optimal

2.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vivo testing showed that concentrations between 1.0% and 5.0% significantly improved skin barrier integrity and reduced TEWL via lipid layer supplementation.
  2. 02 A 0.6% concentration successfully restored hydrophobic properties to damaged keratinous surfaces, improving texture and combability.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.2%

While it provides hair-smoothing benefits at 0.6%, therapeutic skin barrier repair requires at least 1.0%. Formulations including this ingredient for barrier claims at trace levels (below 0.5%) are likely 'dusting' for label appeal.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable in aqueous solutions and emulsions, particularly in slightly acidic environments.

Synergies

  • Ceramides
  • Fatty acids
  • Non-ionic emulsifiers

Conflicts

  • High concentrations of strong anionic surfactants (precipitation risk)
  • Strongly alkaline conditions (protein degradation)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Classified as a safe hydrolyzed protein derivative; quaternary ammonium structure is non-sensitizing at cosmetic use levels.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional biomimetic ingredient for restoring the skin's lipid defense and hair's structural integrity, provided it is used at clinical concentrations.


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