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BIS-CARBOXYDECYL DIMETHICONE.

Valuable / FILM FORMING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A sophisticated ionic silicone polymer that bridges the gap between traditional emolliency and high-performance barrier technology. It creates a flexible, breathable network on the skin's surface that prevents moisture loss while ensuring cosmetic pigments remain evenly distributed and resistant to transfer.

film former skin conditioning agent emollient pigment dispersant barrier protector

Science

This carboxy-functionalized silicone operates through a dual-action structure. Its silicone backbone provides characteristic smoothness and water-repellency, while its carboxylic acid groups, once neutralized, create an ionic matrix that adheres securely to the skin. This results in a viscoelastic, non-tacky film that acts as a secondary skin barrier against environmental irritants and transepidermal water loss.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–30%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated significant stabilization of pigment dispersion and color uniformity at concentrations between 1% and 5%.
  2. 02 Observed enhancements in film durability and wash-off resistance when cross-linked at 3% to 30% concentrations.
  3. 03 Validated as a safe skin protectant that maintains a breathable barrier to prevent moisture evaporation (TEWL).

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

While often used in color cosmetics at low levels for pigment wetting, therapeutic barrier benefits and film-forming efficacy require a minimum of 1% concentration to be meaningful in skincare.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 7 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

The ingredient requires neutralization (typically with an alkaline agent) to reach a pH of 7.0–9.0 to activate its ionic film-forming properties; in its unneutralized state, it behaves as an oil-miscible liquid.

Synergies

  • Polycarbodiimides (for enhanced film durability)
  • Mineral pigments (for stabilized dispersion)
  • Sunscreen filters

Conflicts

  • Low pH environments (causes precipitation)
  • Strongly cationic ingredients (leads to complexation instability)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
15%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Generally recognized as safe in leave-on products up to 15% when formulated to avoid irritation; its large molecular structure prevents deep systemic absorption.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional multi-functional polymer for precision formulations requiring both moisture retention and superior wear-time.


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References