Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient utilizes an amphiphilic structure where its glutamic acid core provides high skin affinity and hydration, while the long-chain (C24-28) fatty alcohols create a robust, hydrophobic film. When used to coat pigments, it prevents particle clumping and improves dispersion in oils, resulting in a 'soft-focus' visual effect and superior resistance to sweat and sebum.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 Clinical assessments demonstrate that surface-treating pigments with this ingredient significantly boosts skin hydration and produces a creamier texture compared to untreated controls.
- 02 Testing confirms a reduction in Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) through the formation of a protective film that mimics the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While often used at functional levels to coat pigments, it should be present at 0.5% or higher in the final formula to contribute significantly to the skin's moisture barrier and long-wear properties.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Demonstrates exceptional stability across a wide pH spectrum; frequently utilized to stabilize complex water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions and is compatible with various silicone and hydrocarbon bases.
Synergies
- Titanium Dioxide
- Iron Oxides
- Silicone Oils
- Squalane
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Highly cationic systems
Safety
Safety Profile
Classified as safe under the 2014 CIR assessment for Amino Acid Alkyl Amides, provided the final formulation is non-irritating.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An essential multi-functional ingredient for achieving long-wear performance without sacrificing skin hydration or barrier integrity.
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