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BIS-C16-20 ISOALKOXY TMHDI/PEG-90 COPOLYMER.

Valuable CAS - / VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A high-performance associative thickener and film-forming polymer that enhances the structural integrity of skincare emulsions. It creates a sophisticated, smooth sensory profile while improving the wear-resistance of topical formulations.

Viscosity controlling Film forming Emulsion stabilizing Texture enhancing

Science

This ingredient functions as a hydrophobically modified ethoxylated urethane (HEUR). It builds a reversible three-dimensional network within a formula by anchoring its hydrophobic C16-20 isoalkoxy end-caps to oil droplets or surfactants, providing exceptional viscosity control and a protective, non-occlusive film on the skin.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–30%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 A Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT) involving a 30% concentration confirmed the polymer is a non-sensitizer and causes zero irritation to human skin.
  2. 02 In vitro toxicity evaluations using the EpiDerm™ Skin Model at 30% concentration showed no significant impact on epidermal keratinocyte viability, predicting high biocompatibility.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

As a structural rheology modifier, this ingredient is typically used at functional levels to ensure formula stability; however, it is not an 'active' in the traditional sense, so dusting is less relevant than its impact on emulsion stability.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 2 – 12
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits remarkable stability across an extreme pH range and maintains consistent viscosity even in high-electrolyte environments or elevated temperatures. It is compatible with cold-process manufacturing.

Synergies

  • Anionic surfactants
  • Non-ionic surfactants
  • Cationic conditioning agents

Conflicts

  • None reported

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
30%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

With a molecular weight exceeding 7,000 Daltons, this polymer is too large to penetrate the skin barrier, ensuring it remains localized on the surface. Residual HDI monomers are maintained at ultra-low levels below 1 ppm.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptionally safe and robust rheology modifier that provides superior texture and stability to high-performance skincare and cosmetic formulas.


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