Science
Mechanism of Action
This diurea-based gelling agent utilizes hydrogen bonding to construct an intricate three-dimensional microscopic network. This architecture stabilizes non-polar oils and silicones into transparent gels, maintaining viscosity without the heavy or occlusive feel associated with traditional waxes.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated efficacy as a non-wax structuring agent in anhydrous systems, providing pigment stability and a unique tactile profile in gel-based cosmetic matrices (US Patent 7,169,403).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a functional texture enhancer and pigment stabilizer, concentrations below 1% typically fail to provide the necessary structural network required for stability, indicating a 'dusting' for label claims rather than performance.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Exhibits exceptional stability across a wide temperature range and is highly effective at thickening dimethicone and other silicone derivatives.
Synergies
- Dimethicone
- Non-polar oils
- Iron oxide pigments
Conflicts
- Highly polar solvents
- Strong acids at high temperatures
- Strong bases at high temperatures
Safety
Safety Profile
While not individually reviewed by the CIR, its constituent parts are well-established in dermatology; it is classified as SkinSAFE 100 Free by the Mayo Clinic.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An essential texturizer for precision skincare-makeup hybrids requiring a weightless feel and superior pigment distribution.
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