Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a Hydrophobically modified Ethoxylated URethane (HEUR). The PEG-400 segments provide water solubility, while the C20 arachidyl alcohol 'anchors' form a reversible three-dimensional network by associating with oil droplets or other hydrophobic components, effectively controlling viscosity and stabilizing the formula matrix.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1.5%
Key findings
- 01 Rheological evaluations demonstrate effective viscosity building in aqueous systems through the formation of a reversible hydrophobic network.
- 02 Safety assessments by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) confirm the polymer is non-sensitizing in leave-on applications at concentrations evaluated up to 7.5%.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a functional rheology modifier, this ingredient is rarely 'dusted' because its primary purpose is to achieve a specific tactile profile; using it below 0.1% would typically fail to provide the intended structural benefit.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Exhibits exceptional stability across a wide pH range and is compatible with various surfactant systems. Ideal for maintaining crystal-clear aesthetics in gels.
Synergies
- Non-ionic surfactants
- Hydrophobic emollients
- Oil-in-water emulsions
Conflicts
- High electrolyte concentrations
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
The 2017 CIR Safety Assessment concluded that polyurethane copolymers of this type are safe for cosmetic use, with typical skincare concentrations remaining well below the 15% safety threshold.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An essential structural component for achieving elegant, transparent, and stable skincare textures without the tackiness often associated with traditional thickeners.
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References
Sources