Science
Mechanism of Action
It functions via a multi-pathway approach: flavonoids like hyperoside and quercetin neutralize oxidative stress, while natural tannins provide a gentle astringent effect to refine skin texture. At a molecular level, it upregulates the production of Aquaporin-3 and Occludin, essential proteins that manage water transport and maintain the integrity of the skin's tight junctions.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2.5%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated significant inhibition of the COX-2 inflammatory enzyme at concentrations as low as 0.04%.
- 02 Reached the IC50 threshold for DPPH radical scavenging at 0.6%, proving high-potency antioxidant activity.
- 03 A 2022 clinical study showed that at 1-5%, it outperformed 3% Niacinamide in reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) by upregulating barrier-specific genes.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While it shows bioactivity at very low levels (0.04%), the most significant barrier-repair and TEWL benefits occur at 1% or higher. Formulas using it below 0.1% are likely 'label dusting' for marketing purposes rather than functional efficacy.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly compatible with aqueous systems; also available in oil-macerated forms for anhydrous serums. Avoid exposing to high heat or strong oxidizers during formulation.
Synergies
- Niacinamide (for enhanced barrier support)
- Glycerin (synergistic hydration via AQP3)
- Hyaluronic Acid
Conflicts
- Highly alkaline environments (pH > 7.0)
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
Considered a low-hazard botanical with a long history of safe use. CIR assessment supports safety up to 5% in leave-on products.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance botanical that rivals synthetic actives like Niacinamide for barrier integrity and moisture retention.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…
References
Sources