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BETA-CARYOPHYLLENE.

Valuable CAS 87-44-5 / FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING, SKIN CONDITIONING

A distinctive sesquiterpene found in black pepper and cloves that acts as a phyto-cannabinoid to soothe skin distress. It bridges the gap between aromatic botanical extracts and precision therapeutics by targeting specific cellular receptors to accelerate recovery.

Skin Conditioning Soothing Agent Anti-inflammatory Terpene / Fragrance

Science

It functions as a selective agonist for Cannabinoid Receptor Type 2 (CB2) within the skin's endocannabinoid system. By activating this pathway, it inhibits NF-κB and MAPK inflammatory signaling while simultaneously triggering Nrf2 antioxidant defenses and upregulating structural proteins like laminin-γ2 for rapid barrier re-epithelialization.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–2%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated significant acceleration in collagen synthesis and wound closure in emulgel formats (2022).
  2. 02 In vitro human keratinocyte assays confirmed potent reduction in inflammatory markers COX-2 and IL-1β (2024).
  3. 03 Identified a specific therapeutic window to prevent mast cell recruitment seen at excessive repeated dosages (2025).

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.001%

Often included at trace levels for its spicy scent profile; however, therapeutic anti-inflammatory and wound-healing benefits require concentrations closer to 1%. It is a 'red flag' if used below 0.001% in leave-on products while being marketed for its CB2-targeting medicinal properties.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 6.1 – 7.4
0 7 14

Stability

Highly volatile and sensitive to oxidation. Exposure to air converts it into beta-caryophyllene oxide (BCPO), a potent sensitizer; requires opaque, airtight packaging and stabilization with antioxidants like Tocopherol.

Synergies

  • Cannabidiol (CBD)
  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
  • Lipid-rich carrier oils

Conflicts

  • Oxidizing agents
  • High-oxygen environments
  • Strongly alkaline environments (pH > 10.5)

Safety

CIR Status
Not formally reviewed by CIR; regulated via RIFM
Max tested
2%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Moderate

While safe up to 2%, it is a recognized EU allergen. Freshness is critical: oxidized material (BCPO) is the primary driver of skin sensitization.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A potent, science-backed phyto-cannabinoid for barrier repair, provided it is stabilized against oxidation and dosed with precision.


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