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Moumoujus

BENZYL HYALURONATE.

Valuable CAS 111744-92-4 / HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

A precision-engineered, lipophilic ester of Hyaluronic Acid designed for superior surface persistence and barrier reinforcement. Unlike native HA, this derivative forms a resilient, breathable film that resists enzymatic degradation while providing sustained moisture delivery.

Summary

Humectant Skin conditioning agent Film former Controlled-release matrix

Science

Mechanism of Action

By esterifying Hyaluronic Acid with benzyl alcohol, the molecule becomes significantly more lipophilic, allowing it to anchor to the skin surface more effectively. It creates a non-occlusive, water-insoluble matrix that acts as a structural reservoir, resisting hyaluronidase—the enzyme that typically breaks down HA—ensuring long-term hydration and serving as a controlled-release vehicle for other active ingredients.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.63–2.5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical trials utilizing 0.63% to 2.5% demonstrated statistically significant improvements in skin microrelief, luminosity, and firming compared to baseline (EP2835130A1).
  2. 02 Biomaterial research indicates that high degrees of esterification create a water-vapor-permeable membrane that accelerates re-epithelialization in compromised skin barriers (Ruiz-Cardona et al.).

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.6%
Red flag below
0.1%

Because it is an expensive specialty ester, brands often include it at 'label claim' levels (under 0.1%). Clinical data suggests that a minimum threshold of 0.63% is required to achieve measurable changes in skin regularity and firmness.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Hydrolytically stable within standard cosmetic pH ranges; however, the ester bond is susceptible to cleavage in highly acidic environments below pH 3.8.

Synergies

  • Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid
  • Ceramides
  • Lipophilic Antioxidants
  • Panthenol

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly acidic formulations (pH < 3.8)
  • Strong anionic surfactants (may disrupt film integrity)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While not specifically reviewed by CIR, its constituent parts—Hyaluronic Acid and Benzyl Alcohol—are well-established as safe. It is utilized in medical-grade wound dressings (HYAFF™) for its biocompatibility.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An elite hyaluronic acid derivative that offers superior film-forming persistence and skin-smoothing benefits compared to standard humectants.

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