Science
Mechanism of Action
It functions primarily by extending the longevity of fragrance volatiles. Biologically, it acts as a secondary antioxidant that neutralizes reactive oxygen species (ROS) and exhibits anti-melanogenic effects by inhibiting melanin synthesis through tyrosinase pathway modulation and ROS reduction.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 In patch tests of 182 subjects, a 3.3% positive reaction rate was observed, defining the ester as a weak sensitizer at high concentrations.
- 02 In vitro DPPH assays confirmed free-radical scavenging potential with an IC50 value of 149.8 mg/mL.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Typically used at minute concentrations for fragrance masking. While it is restricted to 1% in facial products by IFRA, levels below 0.001% are standard and do not trigger EU allergen labeling.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
A crystalline solid with a melting point of 34–39°C. Highly stable in standard emulsions like lotions and cleansers.
Synergies
- Vitamin E
- Squalane
- Cinnamic acid derivatives
Conflicts
- Strong acids
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Bleach
- Strong alkalis
Safety
Safety Profile
Listed as one of the 26 EU-regulated fragrance allergens. Must be declared on INCI lists if concentrations exceed 0.001% in leave-on products.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A valuable functional additive for scent stability and secondary antioxidant protection, though its allergen status makes it unsuitable for highly sensitive skin.
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