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Moumoujus

BENZOPHENONE.

Questionable CAS 119-61-9 / FRAGRANCE, UV ABSORBER

A versatile group of aromatic compounds primarily utilized as chemical UV absorbers and photostabilizers to protect both the skin and product integrity. These molecules, most notably Oxybenzone (BP-3) and Sulisobenzone (BP-4), are staples in broad-spectrum sun protection due to their ability to filter UVB and short-wave UVA rays.

Summary

UV Filter Photostabilizer Fragrance Component Preservative Enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

Benzophenones function through a process of internal conversion; they possess a conjugated molecular structure that captures high-energy UV radiation (280–350nm). This energy is then converted into a keto-tautomer state, which safely dissipates the radiation as low-level heat, preventing cellular damage and the degradation of light-sensitive cosmetic ingredients like fragrances and pigments.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 2–10%
Optimal

6%

Key findings

  1. 01 Research published in JAMA (2019) confirmed that while 6% Oxybenzone is systemically absorbed and detectable in plasma, endocrine levels remained stable in follow-up clinical assessments.
  2. 02 A 2024 SCCS evaluation highlighted safety concerns regarding Benzophenone-1 at 2% due to genotoxicity risks in human keratinocytes, emphasizing the need for specific derivative selection.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Benzophenones are rarely 'dusted' because they serve functional roles as UV filters or stabilizers; concentrations below 0.1% are typically only present as impurities or to prevent product discoloration rather than providing active skin protection.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 3.5 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Benzophenone-3 is lipophilic and highly stable, whereas Benzophenone-4 is hydrophilic and highly acidic, requiring neutralization to pH 5.5–6.0 to prevent formula instability.

Synergies

  • Octocrylene
  • Lipid-based delivery systems
  • Antioxidants

Conflicts

  • Magnesium salts (in W/O emulsions)
  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly alkaline environments (>pH 9.0)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Caution
Sensitization risk Moderate

While CIR considers them safe, the SCCS has recently tightened recommendations (2.2% for full-body application of BP-3) due to systemic absorption concerns. Pregnancy safety is often debated due to potential endocrine-active properties.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

Effective for UV stabilization and filtering, yet increasingly scrutinized due to systemic absorption and potential environmental and endocrine impacts.

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