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BEHENYL BEESWAX.

Valuable CAS 144514-52-3 / SKIN CONDITIONING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A sophisticated, modified ester of beeswax engineered to provide superior oil-gelling capabilities and a refined sensory profile. Unlike traditional beeswax, this behenyl-derived version creates smooth, non-granular textures while acting as a high-performance breathable barrier.

Viscosity controlling Emollient Film forming Skin conditioning

Science

This ingredient functions as a semi-occlusive emollient and film-former. It constructs a thin, breathable protective layer on the skin's surface, which drastically curtails transepidermal water loss (TEWL) without the heaviness of standard waxes. Chemically, its reduced crystallinity allows it to structure liquid oils into stable gels, enhancing the spreadability of topical formulations.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–11%
Optimal

9%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical gelling trials (EP0319062B1) identified 9% as the ideal concentration for creating stable, non-granular semi-solids with a 'warm' skin feel.
  2. 02 A 28-day clinical study (PMID: 35084126) utilized Behenyl Beeswax within a multi-ingredient complex to significantly reduce under-eye wrinkles and dark circles.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

As a structural and texture-modifying wax, it is rarely 'dusted.' However, concentrations below 1% in barrier-focused products may be insufficient to provide the claimed occlusive benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 14
0 7 14

Stability

Highly robust due to its non-ionic nature; remains stable across a wide pH range. It features a melting point of 64–69°C and is specifically used to prevent syneresis (oil bleeding) in anhydrous systems.

Synergies

  • Vegetable oils
  • Mineral pigments
  • Lipid-soluble antioxidants

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
11%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Assessed by the CIR as part of the Alkyl Esters group; it is non-irritating and safe for use in concentrations up to 11%.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An excellent texture-enhancing occlusive that provides significant moisture retention and formula stability with a low risk of irritation.


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