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BEHENETH-20.

Valuable CAS 26636-40-8 / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A high-performance polyoxyethylene ether of behenyl alcohol that serves as a robust stabilizer for oil-in-water emulsions. It is valued in precision skincare for its ability to create sophisticated, temperature-stable liquid crystal structures while simultaneously acting as a targeted penetration enhancer.

emulsifying surfactant penetration enhancer stabilizer

Science

Beheneth-20 functions as a non-ionic surfactant that reduces interfacial tension to create uniform emulsions. Its unique C22 long-chain structure forms a stable crystalline network that increases viscosity and formula resilience. On a biological level, it temporarily modifies the lipid organization of the stratum corneum, facilitating the deeper delivery of co-formulated active ingredients.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.7–5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated significant improvement in the transdermal delivery and skin partitioning of lipophilic compounds at a 3% concentration by enhancing absorption through the stratum corneum.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

As a functional emulsifier rather than a primary active, it is rarely 'dusted' for marketing purposes. It is typically included at levels necessary for formula stability, ranging from 0.7% to 2%.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3 – 11
0 7 14

Stability

Extremely stable across a wide pH spectrum due to its hydrolysis-resistant ether linkage. It possesses a high HLB value of approximately 16.5, making it ideal for stabilizing water-heavy systems.

Synergies

  • lipophilic active ingredients
  • behenyl alcohol
  • liquid crystal emulsifiers

Conflicts

  • highly concentrated electrolyte solutions
  • strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel considers it safe up to 5% in leave-on products, provided the final formulation is tested for non-irritancy.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A highly reliable and versatile emulsifier that enhances both formula texture and the delivery of active ingredients without compromising skin tolerance.


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