Science
Mechanism of Action
As a cationic (positively charged) compound, Basic Yellow 87 functions through electrostatic attraction, binding securely to the negatively charged keratin proteins found on the hair surface and within the cuticle. Its high molecular weight and ionic charge effectively limit deep dermal penetration, ensuring the pigment remains localized to the surface fibers.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro human skin absorption trials demonstrate a very low systemic exposure dose (SED), with dermal absorption rates recorded at approximately 0.27% to 0.28%.
- 02 Safety evaluations confirm the substance is non-phototoxic and non-sensitizing even at concentrations reaching 50% in animal models.
- 03 Ocular testing at a 5% aqueous dilution indicates the ingredient is non-irritating to the eyes in formulated states.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a direct dye, the concentration is determined by the desired color intensity; concentrations below 0.05% typically fail to provide functional color deposition in rinse-off hair treatments.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Maintains high stability in both oxidative and non-oxidative environments. For optimal integration, the dye should be dissolved in water heated to 70-80°C.
Synergies
- Non-ionic surfactants
- Cationic conditioning agents
Conflicts
- Anionic surfactants
- Strong electrolytes
- High salt concentrations
Safety
Safety Profile
Regulated as a coal tar hair dye in the United States; products containing this ingredient must include specific caution statements and patch testing instructions to maintain FDA exemption.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A safe and effective direct dye for targeted color deposition in hair care, though its utility is strictly aesthetic rather than therapeutic for the skin.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…
References
Sources