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BASIC RED 22.

Avoid CAS 12221-52-2 / HAIR DYEING

A synthetic cationic azo dye primarily utilized as a direct colorant in non-oxidative hair care applications. Due to its significant sensitization potential and regulatory prohibitions, it is not utilized in modern precision skincare formulations.

colorant

Science

Functions through electrostatic attraction where the positively charged dye molecules bind to negatively charged carboxylate groups found in keratin structures. This allows for surface-level color deposition without the need for chemical oxidation.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 A 2001 case study confirmed that a 1.0% concentration in hair mousse triggered severe allergic contact dermatitis, validated by patch testing.
  2. 02 QSAR modeling and cluster analysis identified the molecule as a moderate to strong sensitizer among common hair dye substances.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

As a prohibited substance in many jurisdictions, this ingredient is not typically found in skincare; any inclusion in topical products would represent a significant safety violation rather than marketing 'dusting'.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3.5 – 6
0 7 14

Stability

The molecule maintains hydrolytic stability in acidic environments but degrades as the pH approaches neutral or alkaline levels; it is also highly sensitive to chlorine residues in water.

Conflicts

  • Anionic surfactants
  • Anionic polymers
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
0%
Pregnancy
Caution
Sensitization risk High

Explicitly prohibited for use in cosmetic products in the European Union (Annex II, entry 1292) and lacks US FDA approval for general cosmetic applications.


Your Skin

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Avoid

Prohibited in the EU and identified as a potent sensitizer, this ingredient has no place in a precision skincare regimen.


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