Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates through electrostatic attraction, where its positively charged molecules bind to the negatively charged anionic sites found on the surface of keratin proteins. This surface-level bonding ensures the color adheres to the substrate's exterior rather than migrating into the deeper cortex or dermis.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidence0.09%
Key findings
- 01 Safety assessments of Basic Brown 17, which contains Basic Red 118 as a primary impurity (up to 4.5%), limit the effective safe exposure of Red 118 to approximately 0.09% in non-oxidative formulations.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its high pigment load and regulatory restrictions, this ingredient is frequently used at trace levels as an impurity or minor tinting agent rather than a functional skincare active.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Maintains peak stability in acidic to neutral aqueous environments; exposure to alkaline conditions (pH > 9.0) typically results in molecular degradation or significant color shifts.
Conflicts
- anionic surfactants (e.g., Sodium Lauryl Sulfate)
- anionic polymers (e.g., Carbomer)
- strong oxidizing agents
- reducing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
Currently banned as a standalone cosmetic ingredient in the EU (Annex II) due to insufficient safety data dossiers; it is only permitted when present as a controlled impurity within Basic Brown 17.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
While effective for temporary pigment deposition, its regulatory status and high potential for irritation make it unsuitable for precision skincare.
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Similar Ingredients
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References
Sources