Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a positively charged molecule that establishes an electrostatic bond with the negatively charged keratin surface of the hair shaft. In oxidative formulations, alkalizing agents facilitate the swelling of the hair cuticle, allowing the dye's conjugated double-bond system to penetrate and anchor within the hair cortex for enhanced longevity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 SCCS/SCCP Opinion 1116/07 identifying 2.0% as effective for semi-permanent adhesion without systemic toxicity.
- 02 SCCP Safety Assessment highlighting 1.0% as the optimal concentration for oxidative penetration when coupled with hydrogen peroxide.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a primary colorant, this ingredient is typically used at functional levels (1.0-2.0%) to ensure visible pigment payoff; concentrations significantly below 1% in hair dye products may indicate a 'dusting' for marketing claims rather than performance.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Demonstrates exceptional stability in alkaline environments (pH 9.5-10.5), which is standard for oxidative developer systems. However, its cationic nature makes it highly sensitive to anionic environments.
Synergies
- Hydrogen peroxide
- Alkalizing agents
- Non-ionic surfactants
Conflicts
- Anionic surfactants
- Strong reducing agents
- Carbomer and other anionic thickeners
Safety
Safety Profile
Strictly regulated by EU Annex III/248, limiting usage to 2.0% in non-oxidative products and 1.0% in oxidative products post-mixing.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An effective and stable cationic pigment for hair care applications, though it offers no functional benefits for topical skincare.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…
References
Sources