Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates through electrostatic attraction; the positively charged dye molecules bind to the negatively charged keratin found in the skin and hair cuticle. As a direct-acting dye, it physically coats the surface rather than penetrating the cortex or undergoing a chemical transformation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 Dermal absorption analysis on porcine models demonstrated negligible penetration at 2%, with only 0.066% to 0.11% of the ingredient moving beyond the surface layer.
- 02 OECD TG 404 rabbit studies using 100% concentrations yielded a Primary Irritation Index of 0.0, classifying the molecule as non-irritating.
- 03 Local Lymph Node Assays (LLNA) confirmed that concentrations as high as 25% do not induce sensitization.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because Basic Brown 17 is a pigment, even low concentrations provide visible color. However, safety data specifically supports its use up to 2% in rinse-off applications.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly light-sensitive; must be protected from UV exposure. Stable within standard cosmetic bases but degrades when exposed to oxidizing environments.
Conflicts
- strong oxidizing agents
- peroxides
- strong acids
- alkali metals
Safety
Safety Profile
Current safety assessments by the SCCS and CIR restrict use to 2% in rinse-off hair products; there is currently insufficient data to support its safety in leave-on skincare or non-coloring cosmetic applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
While highly effective and safe for rinse-off hair coloration at 2%, its lack of safety data for leave-on skincare makes it unsuitable for precision facial formulations.
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References
Sources