Science
Mechanism of Action
The extract acts as a targeted inhibitor of Aminopeptidase N (APN). Its primary flavonoid, diosmin, binds to sebocyte membranes to block peptide-induced signals that trigger oil production. This interrupts the differentiation of lipid-producing cells, effectively lowering the total volume of sebum synthesized and secreted.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 An in-vivo study involving 20 participants over 28 days using a 3% concentration demonstrated an average sebum reduction of 13% (reaching up to 42% in some subjects) along with a 24% decrease in pore count.
- 02 In-vitro testing at 1.68% on sebocyte cultures showed a 69% reduction in synthesized lipid levels and a 54% decrease in lipid accumulation during cell maturation.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
This ingredient is frequently included at very low concentrations (below 1%) for marketing claims. However, clinical data suggests that a minimum of 1.68% is required for cellular impact, with 3% being the standard for visible pore and sebum correction.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Heat-sensitive; must be incorporated during the cooling phase of production (below 40°C) to preserve the bioactivity of the flavonoids. Highly stable in standard aqueous solutions.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Zinc PCA
- Salicylic Acid
Safety
Safety Profile
While not yet formally reviewed by the CIR, it is classified as GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) by the FDA for food use, supporting its safety profile in topical applications up to 4%.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptionally effective botanical for precision oil management and pore diameter reduction when formulated at active concentrations above 1.5%.
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