Science
Mechanism of Action
It functions as a biological inhibitor of the Aminopeptidase N (APN) enzyme within the sebocyte membrane. By regulating this pathway, it modulates the final stages of sebocyte maturation, effectively curbing excessive sebum secretion at its point of origin while delivering antioxidant support via its high diosmin content.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 A 28-day in-vivo study utilizing a 3% concentration demonstrated an average sebum reduction of 13%, with peak performance reaching 42% less oil secretion.
- 02 Clinical measurements confirmed a 20.5% decrease in total pore count and an 18.8% reduction in overall pore surface area.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While manufacturers recommend 1-10% for clinical results, many products include it at levels below 0.5% for marketing claims ('dusting'). To achieve the significant pore-refining and mattifying benefits cited in clinical data, a minimum of 1-3% is required.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Exhibits excellent stability across a broad pH spectrum; however, it is heat-sensitive and must be incorporated during the cooling phase (under 40°C) to maintain the integrity of its phytochemicals.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Salicylic Acid
- Zinc PCA
Safety
Safety Profile
Though formally unreviewed by the CIR, it is recognized as safe by the EU CosIng database. Historical usage data in the US suggests a 0.375% limit for stay-on products, though industrial safety assessments for the purified active allow for higher therapeutic concentrations.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional precision active for oily and combination skin types seeking to reduce pore visibility and sebum flow without irritation.
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References
Sources