Science
Mechanism of Action
This ferment operates through a dual-action pathway: first, high concentrations of the flavonoids saponarin and lutonarin neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inhibit pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-1α. Second, the fermentation process cleaves barley proteins into bio-available pyroglutamyl pentapeptides, which facilitate a 48.5% increase in Collagen-1 synthesis under UV stress while significantly lowering transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 20.8% inhibition of ROS-induced oxidative damage and 19.7% reduction in DNA damage (CPD) at concentrations between 0.5-5.0%.
- 02 Demonstrated 10% improvement in skin texture and significant reduction in roughness at high-inclusion levels (33.7%) with a skin irritation index of 0.00.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is a fermented botanical, many brands include it at 'label claim' concentrations (under 0.1%). To achieve the documented 20% reduction in oxidative damage and measurable barrier repair, a minimum concentration of 0.5% is required.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Exhibits robust stability across a pH range of 3.0-12.0 and remains heat-stable up to 45°C. It is electrolyte-tolerant and maintains transparency in aqueous solutions.
Synergies
- UV Filters
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Niacinamide
Conflicts
- strong oxidizing agents
- non-ion-tolerant thickeners
Safety
Safety Profile
While the specific ferment is not yet reviewed by the CIR, its constituent components (Barley Sprout and Sucrose) are established as safe for cosmetic use. It is recognized by EU CosIng as a safe skin-conditioning agent.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A highly effective multifunctional bioactive that excels at protecting the skin's genetic integrity and structural proteins from environmental stress.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…
References
Sources