Science
Mechanism of Action
The fermentation process converts complex glycosyl-flavonoids into potent aglycones like quercetin, which more effectively penetrate the skin barrier. It functions by downregulating the tyrosinase enzyme and associated proteins (TRP-1/2) to inhibit melanin production, while simultaneously suppressing pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, IL-8) and neutralizing oxidative radicals.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In vitro testing showed a 52.5% reduction in melanin synthesis at 200 μg/mL via tyrosinase suppression.
- 02 Human keratinocyte studies demonstrate significant mitigation of UVB-induced inflammatory markers (IL-6, TNF-α) at concentrations up to 400 μg/mL.
- 03 Fermented variants exhibit superior radical scavenging and iNOS suppression compared to standard extracts.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is often marketed as part of 'Jeju-themed' stories, it is frequently used at trace amounts for label claims. However, clinical efficacy for brightening and anti-inflammatory benefits requires concentrations that correlate to the 100-200 μg/mL range used in studies.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in water-based systems; should be incorporated during the cooling phase (below 40°C) to preserve the integrity of heat-sensitive metabolites.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Vitamin C
- Sooting agents
Safety
Safety Profile
Listed in EU CosIng as safe for skin conditioning; primary irritation tests confirm it is non-irritating at standard formulation levels.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance bio-active that bridges the gap between traditional botanical extracts and precision fermentation for superior brightening and soothing.
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References
Sources