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BACILLUS/MONASCUS/BORAGO OFFICINALIS SEED/SOYBEAN FERMENT FILTRATE.

Valuable / ANTI-SEBUM, ANTIMICROBIAL, ANTIOXIDANT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A bio-engineered ferment complex that utilizes Bacillus and Monascus microbes to transform Borage and Soybean lipids into highly bioavailable metabolites. This precision process refines raw oils into a lightweight, water-soluble filtrate that delivers deep nourishment without the typical occlusive weight of traditional seed oils.

antioxidant antimicrobial anti-sebum skin conditioning emollient

Science

The fermentation process enzymatically breaks down complex triglycerides into free fatty acids—specifically Gamma-Linolenic Acid (GLA)—and glycerol. It synthesizes Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs), which act as natural glycolipid biosurfactants to lower surface tension, significantly enhancing the penetration of bioactive polyphenols while regulating sebum and providing antimicrobial defense.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 2–5%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical evaluations indicate that a 5% concentration can improve structural tensile strength by 24.3% and significantly enhance skin barrier recovery compared to non-fermented oil counterparts.
  2. 02 Technical data demonstrates that the production of MELs during fermentation facilitates superior epidermal absorption and provides measurable improvements in skin hydration levels.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
2%
Red flag below
1%

To achieve the penetration-enhancing and barrier-repair benefits identified in clinical data, the ingredient should be formulated at 2% or higher; concentrations below 1% are likely insufficient for therapeutic impact.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Thermolabile; must be incorporated during the cooling phase (below 40°C) to prevent the degradation of bioactive metabolites and ferments.

Synergies

  • Ceramides
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Niacinamide

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High pH environments (>8.0)

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
100%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While the specific complex is awaiting CIR review, its constituent parts (Borage, Soybean, and common ferments) have a long-standing history of safe cosmetic use.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An advanced, multifunctional ferment that offers the nutritive benefits of Borage and Soy with enhanced absorption and zero greasiness.


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