Science
Mechanism of Action
It utilizes specialized bacterial protease enzymes to perform keratolytic exfoliation, selectively breaking the protein bonds between dead surface cells to promote cellular turnover without the irritation often associated with AHAs. Beyond exfoliation, it functions as a postbiotic to balance the microbiome, enhances the bioavailability of other nutrients, and stimulates Type IV collagen and elastin to structurally reinforce the dermal-epidermal junction.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 A 10-week clinical assessment of a 2% concentration demonstrated a 25.1% increase in hydration, 14.2% improvement in skin texture, and a 12.1% boost in elasticity.
- 02 In-vivo testing at 1% concentration over 14 days confirmed significant sebum regulation and a visible reduction in cutaneous redness.
- 03 Higher concentrations (up to 20%) in mixed-culture trials showed profound wrinkle depth reduction and brightening effects, even in sensitive skin cohorts.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is a 'ferment,' many brands include it at sub-clinical levels (<1%) to claim microbiome benefits on the label. However, significant enzymatic exfoliation and structural anti-aging results require at least 1-2%.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Enzymatic activity is highly pH-dependent, peaking between 5.0 and 8.0; it becomes inactive in acidic environments below pH 5.0. It is heat stable up to 60°C.
Synergies
- Hyaluronic acid
- Niacinamide
- Peptides
- Prebiotics
Conflicts
- Protease inhibitors
- EDTA (disodium/tetrasodium)
- Copper and Iron ions
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (2024) confirms its safety in leave-on products, with the highest reported concentration in the market being 5.6% for facial applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A sophisticated, low-irritation alternative to acids that bridges the gap between gentle exfoliation and advanced microbiome care.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…
References
Sources