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AURICULARIA POLYTRICHA FRUITING BODY EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS - / HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING

Derived from the Wood Ear mushroom, this botanical extract functions as a bio-active humectant that creates a protective, breathable film on the skin. It bridges the gap between traditional hydration and advanced barrier support by utilizing mushroom-derived polysaccharides to lock in moisture.

humectant skin conditioning film former anti-inflammatory

Science

The extract operates through a dual-action pathway: it physiologically upregulates Aquaporin-3 water channels and Filaggrin proteins to improve internal cellular hydration while simultaneously forming a physical polysaccharide film that significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Furthermore, it provides secondary benefits by suppressing inflammatory markers (IL-6 and TNF-alpha) and boosting natural antioxidant enzymes like Superoxide Dismutase.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.003–1%
Optimal

0.74%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated optimal efficacy at 0.74% in film-forming spray applications for TEWL reduction and hydration.
  2. 02 In vitro analysis confirmed cellular hydration via increased AQP3 and FLG expression at concentrations ranging from 37.5 to 300 µg/mL.
  3. 03 Significant antioxidant activity (77.5% radical scavenging) noted at 10 mg/mL concentrations.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

Because it is a botanical extract with a high molecular weight polysaccharide profile, it is often included at 'label claim' levels (under 0.1%). To achieve the clinically validated film-forming and barrier-strengthening effects, it should ideally be formulated near the 0.74% mark.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Peak stability is achieved at a neutral pH of 7.0. The integrity of the polysaccharide gel structure and overall viscosity may degrade in highly acidic (pH < 4.0) or strongly alkaline environments.

Synergies

  • Glycerin
  • Sodium Hyaluronate
  • Ceramides

Conflicts

  • Strong acids (AHA/BHA)
  • High electrolyte concentrations
  • Strong alkalis

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While not yet formally reviewed by the CIR, its long-standing status as an edible mushroom and its use in 'Teen Safe' hypoallergenic products suggest an excellent safety profile for topical use.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-performance natural humectant that provides unique film-forming protection and biological hydration support for all skin types.


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