Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates through a dual-action biotransformation process. The Aureobasidium pullulans yeast synthesizes a breathable, moisture-locking matrix of pullulan and beta-glucan on the skin's surface. Simultaneously, the fermentation breaks down botanical lignans and polysaccharides into smaller molecular weights, significantly increasing the bioavailability of antioxidant schizandrins and anti-inflammatory compounds from Solomon’s Seal.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 In vivo trials at a 2% concentration demonstrated a 25% improvement in hydration and a 20% reduction in Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) over 28 days.
- 02 Comparative DPPH assays at 5% show significantly higher free-radical scavenging capacity than standard botanical extracts, alongside reduced cytokine activity in reactive skin models.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because this is a complex ferment, many brands list it at 'label-only' concentrations (below 0.5%). However, clinical data suggests that a minimum of 2% is required to achieve measurable barrier repair and hydration benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in water-based formulas. It is heat-sensitive and must be incorporated during the cool-down phase below 40°C to preserve enzymatic and antioxidant integrity.
Synergies
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Ceramides
Conflicts
- High-proof ethanol (precipitates polysaccharides)
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
While not yet formally reviewed by the CIR, all constituent components and the fermenting yeast are Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) and used in food-grade applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional multi-tasking ferment that provides both immediate film-forming hydration and long-term antioxidant protection for compromised skin barriers.
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