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AUREOBASIDIUM PULLULANS/CITRUS UNSHIU FRUIT EXTRACT FERMENT FILTRATE.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING

A sophisticated bio-active ferment produced by the symbiotic interaction between Black Yeast and Jeju Mandarin. This process bioconverts standard citrus flavonoids into high-potency aglycones, offering superior bioavailability for brightening and structural skin support.

skin-conditioning antioxidant brightening humectant barrier-repair

Science

The fermentation process transforms inactive flavonoid glycosides into active hesperetin and naringenin, which effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity for a brighter complexion. Concurrently, the ferment's beta-glucan content upregulates filaggrin and SPT expression to reinforce the lipid barrier, while suppressing MMP-1 enzymes to prevent collagen degradation.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–2.5%
Optimal

2.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated 45% reduction in cellular senescence markers and dose-dependent MMP-1 inhibition in human dermal fibroblasts.
  2. 02 In vitro verification of flavonoid bioconversion into bioactive aglycones and suppression of GPDH adipogenic activity at 2.5%.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

While this ingredient shows cellular benefits as low as 0.1%, many formulations include it at trace levels purely for marketing the 'ferment' claim. For visible brightening and barrier fortification, Moumoujus recommends seeking concentrations closer to the 2.5% clinical benchmark.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Thermally sensitive; avoid heating above 45°C during the cool-down phase to preserve delicate metabolites.

Synergies

  • Vitamin C
  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic Acid

Conflicts

  • High ethanol concentrations
  • Strong oxidizers
  • Extreme pH (<3.5 or >8.0)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
100%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Fermentation naturally lowers the concentration of phototoxic constituents like 5-MOP, making this a safer alternative to raw citrus extracts.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-performance multifunctional ferment that bridges the gap between traditional botanical extracts and modern biotechnology for superior brightening and barrier health.


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