Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as both a powerful emollient and a breathable occlusive. Rich in Lauric acid (40-48%), it penetrates the skin barrier to stimulate natural ceramide production while Myristic and Oleic acids reinforce the hydrolipidic film. This dual action traps moisture within the epidermis and effectively seals the cutaneous barrier against environmental stressors.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 In vivo testing at 3% concentration demonstrated nearly 100% cutaneous barrier restoration and a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
- 02 A clinical evaluation of a 4.7% concentration showed a progressive hydration increase, rising from 19% at day 28 to 52% at day 84.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While often used as a marketing claim at low levels, clinical data suggests that a minimum concentration of 3% is required to achieve the significant barrier repair and TEWL reduction levels documented in efficacy studies.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly resistant to oxidation due to a high saturated fatty acid content. To maintain structural integrity and prevent degradation, it should be processed at temperatures below 60°C.
Synergies
- Ceramides
- Glycerin
- Hyaluronic Acid
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Strong acids
- Acid chlorides
- Acid anhydrides
Safety
Safety Profile
Recognized as a 'Green Circle' ingredient by the EPA, signifying a low concern for human health and high environmental safety.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptionally effective botanical lipid for restoring the skin barrier and providing long-term hydration, though its moderate comedogenicity suggests it is best suited for dry and compromised skin types.
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References
Sources