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ASPERGILLUS/SOYBEAN/WHEAT GERM/CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF/JOB'S TEARS SEED/RICE GERM/SESAME SEED FERMENT.

Valuable CAS - / HUMECTANT

A sophisticated multi-grain and botanical complex biotransformed through traditional Aspergillus fermentation. This process converts large plant molecules into high-potency, low-molecular-weight nutrients that deeply penetrate the skin to restore hydration and barrier integrity.

Humectant Skin conditioning agent Antioxidant Barrier repair Brightening

Science

Aspergillus-driven fermentation utilizes proteolytic and amylolytic enzymes to hydrolyze plant proteins and polysaccharides into bioactive peptides (under 20 kDa) and amino acids that replenish the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF). Additionally, it neutralizes phytic acid to enhance mineral bioavailability while delivering antioxidant polyphenols and trace brightening agents to the epidermis.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated a 24% improvement in skin barrier function and significant reduction in trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) over a 4-week period at 2.0%.
  2. 02 Observed significant upregulation of hyaluronic acid production in human skin fibroblasts, leading to measurable increases in vivo hydration levels.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

To achieve the clinical benefits of barrier repair and hyaluronic acid stimulation, this complex should be formulated at a minimum of 1.0%. Concentrations below 0.5% are likely used for marketing claims rather than physiological impact.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

The complex is thermolabile; it must be incorporated during the cooling phase of production (below 40°C) to prevent the denaturation of bioactive peptides.

Synergies

  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Glycerin
  • Panthenol

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Formulations with pH below 3.5 or above 8.5

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While generally recognized as safe, the presence of wheat germ and sesame seed derivatives requires caution and clear labeling for users with specific food-grade allergies.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-performance fermented active that provides multi-dimensional benefits for skin hydration, barrier fortification, and antioxidant protection.


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