Science
Mechanism of Action
It functions as a biological signaling agent that upregulates the mRNA levels of Hyaluronan Synthase 1 (HAS1) and Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), enhancing the skin's internal hydration network. Simultaneously, it stimulates Filaggrin expression to reinforce the physical barrier and inhibits tyrosinase activity to modulate melanin production while promoting fibroblast proliferation for improved structural density.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1.25%
Key findings
- 01 At 1.25%, the filtrate demonstrates significant upregulation of HAS1 and AQP3, leading to measurable increases in epidermal water content.
- 02 A 0.25% concentration paired with Sialic Acid has been shown to boost Type I collagen synthesis (COL1A1) by approximately 198%.
- 03 Concentrations of 5.0% exhibit potent tyrosinase inhibition and melanin suppression in melanocytes.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While this ingredient provides collagen support at 0.25% when combined with synergists, its primary hydration and brightening benefits require concentrations above 1.0%. Formulations listing it near the end of the INCI deck often fail to meet the clinical threshold for its multi-microbial benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Heat-sensitive; must be incorporated during the cool-down phase (below 40°C) to preserve the integrity of bioactive peptides and enzymatic components.
Synergies
- Sialic Acid
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Niacinamide
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Extreme pH environments below 3.0 or above 9.0
Safety
Safety Profile
Both Aspergillus and Saccharomyces microorganisms are food-grade and GRAS-certified, making this extract exceptionally well-tolerated.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional multi-tasking ferment that provides scientifically validated improvements in hydration, collagen density, and tone clarity when used at clinical levels.
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