Science
Mechanism of Action
The fermentation process via Aspergillus and Saccharomyces breaks down large plant polysaccharides into small-chain peptides, amino acids, and organic acids. Mulberry-derived stilbenoids (Mulberroside A) and rice-derived kojic acid work synergistically to inhibit tyrosinase activity, while the fermented nutrient profile upregulates collagen synthesis and enhances the expression of Aquaporin 3 and Filaggrin to reinforce the skin barrier.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro 3D models demonstrate up to a 12x increase in Type I and Type III collagen expression.
- 02 Melanocyte culture testing showed a 20-30% reduction in melanin synthesis via enzymatic inhibition.
- 03 Clinical application of 2.0% concentrations resulted in a 10% increase in hydration and a significant reduction in TEWL over 28 days.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its high cost and 'clean beauty' marketing appeal, this extract is frequently used at 'dusting' levels (below 0.1%) for label claims. To achieve measurable improvements in skin density and barrier function, a minimum concentration of 1.0% is required.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Heat stable during processing up to 85°C, however, to preserve sensitive bio-actives, it is ideally incorporated during the cooling phase below 40°C.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Vitamin C derivatives
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Highly alkaline environments (pH > 8.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
Classified as non-sensitizing under the 2023 CIR assessment of yeast-derived ingredients. Safe for long-term topical use.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A sophisticated fermented active that bridges the gap between traditional J-beauty wisdom and modern clinical performance in brightening and barrier health.
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References
Sources