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Moumoujus

ASPERGILLUS/SACCHAROMYCES/IPOMOEA BATATAS ROOT FERMENT LEES EXTRACT.

Valuable / HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

A high-performance bio-ferment derived from Japanese sweet potato shochu distillation residues, utilizing a dual-microbial process to concentrate bioactive peptides and organic acids. This extract serves as a multifunctional precision active that bridges the gap between traditional Hanbang medicine and cellular molecular biology.

Summary

Tyrosinase Inhibitor Antioxidant Humectant ECM Stimulator Skin Conditioning Agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract operates via a multi-pathway approach: it inhibits tyrosinase activity to intercept melanin synthesis at the source while deploying caffeoylquinic acid derivatives to neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS). On a structural level, it upregulates the expression of Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) for deep hydration and stimulates Type I Collagen mRNA to reinforce the extracellular matrix.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vivo testing on Japanese cohorts showed significant reduction in hyperpigmentation and measurable improvements in skin density and surface texture over a 12-week period.
  2. 02 In vitro B16F10 cell assays confirmed potent tyrosinase inhibition and antioxidant radical scavenging at a 2% concentration.
  3. 03 3D epidermal model studies demonstrated enhanced mRNA expression of Type I Collagen and Hyaluronan Synthase 1 (HAS1) at 5% concentration.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Due to its complex INCI name and 'fermented' marketing appeal, it is frequently included in formulas at concentrations below 0.5%. However, clinical data suggests a minimum of 1-2% is required to achieve visible brightening and anti-aging results.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

The extract is highly stable in aqueous environments but is thermolabile; it must be incorporated during the cooling phase at temperatures below 40°C to maintain enzymatic and peptide integrity.

Synergies

  • Niacinamide
  • Vitamin C derivatives
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Peptides

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Formulations with pH below 3.0 or above 8.0

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While the specific lees complex is awaiting formal CIR review, its components—Saccharomyces, Aspergillus, and Ipomoea Batatas—are long-established in food and cosmetic science with a high safety profile.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An exceptional fermented active for precision brightening and collagen support, provided it is formulated at a clinical dosage of at least 2%.

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