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ASPERGILLUS/SACCHAROMYCES/CHICORY ROOT FERMENT LEES EXTRACT.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING

A sophisticated bio-fermented active derived from chicory root using a dual-fungal process to unlock potent prebiotic and postbiotic metabolites. This extract is engineered to synchronize the skin's microbiome while reinforcing the acid mantle for a resilient, balanced complexion.

Prebiotic Skin Conditioning Microbiome Support Soothing

Science

Through controlled fermentation by Aspergillus and Saccharomyces, the large inulin molecules in chicory are enzymatically cleaved into short-chain oligosaccharides. These serve as selective prebiotics that nourish beneficial flora, while the byproduct metabolites—including amino acids and peptides—function as Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF) that restore the skin's pH to its optimal 5.0-5.5 range.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical validation by DermoPilaire Laboratory demonstrated significant dual-action exfoliation and anti-fungal properties, successfully mitigating both oily and dry dandruff symptoms through microbiome rebalancing.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because of its long, complex INCI name and expensive fermentation process, many brands 'dust' this ingredient at levels below 1.0% to claim microbiome benefits. However, clinical data suggests a minimum of 1.0% is required to effectively influence the skin's fungal and bacterial landscape.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 5.5
0 7 14

Stability

Heat-sensitive; should be incorporated during the cooling phase below 40°C. Maintaining a slightly acidic environment is critical for the stability of its fermented metabolites.

Synergies

  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Niacinamide
  • Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High-alkaline formulations (>pH 8.0)
  • Highly acidic peels (<pH 3.0)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used (CIR 2013)
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Utilizes food-grade microorganisms; the fermented extract is considered Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS).


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-performance precision ingredient for maintaining skin homeostasis and treating scalp dysbiosis.


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