Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions by delivering a bioavailable cocktail of amino acids and ferulic acid directly to the skin. It fundamentally strengthens the epidermal barrier by upregulating filaggrin expression and ceramide production, while simultaneously suppressing pro-inflammatory cytokines like IL-8 to soothe reactive skin.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 Clinical evaluation at 3% concentration demonstrated a 300% improvement in moisture retention over glycerin, maintaining hydration levels for up to 8 hours.
- 02 In vitro analysis at 1-2% confirmed a significant increase in structural proteins and a 10% reduction in inflammatory markers.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its high cost and efficacy at low levels, brands often include it at 'label-claim' amounts (below 1%) where it functions merely as a conditioning agent rather than a primary hydration driver.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Thermolabile; must be processed via cold-incorporation below 40°C to preserve the integrity of the bioactive ferments.
Synergies
- Ceramides
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High alkaline environments
- Temperatures exceeding 40°C
Safety
Safety Profile
While the specific 'Lees' filtrate is awaiting formal CIR review, its constituent parts are FDA GRAS and have a long history of safe use in skincare.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A superior fermented active that outperforms glycerin in long-term hydration while actively repairing the skin's biological barrier.
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