Science
Mechanism of Action
It functions as a multi-pathway biological modulator: it upregulates the Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) and Filaggrin (FLG) proteins to improve cellular water transport and barrier integrity. Simultaneously, it stimulates the synthesis of Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides while inhibiting tyrosinase and elastase enzymes to brighten tone and preserve structural elasticity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1.25%
Key findings
- 01 Observed a 26.93% increase in stratum corneum hydration levels at a 1.25% concentration via AQP3 and FLG upregulation.
- 02 Demonstrated a 198% boost in collagen synthesis when 0.25% ferment was combined with Sialic Acid, stabilizing collagen mRNA.
- 03 Achieved a 71% increase in AQP3 protein content and 51% increase in Filaggrin expression at a 3.0% concentration.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because this ingredient is effective at very low concentrations (as low as 0.25%), brands often include it at 'label-only' percentages below 0.1% to claim fermentation benefits without reaching the threshold for biological efficacy.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in aqueous solutions; however, it must be incorporated during the cooling phase below 45°C to protect its heat-sensitive bioactive enzymes.
Synergies
- Sialic Acid (for collagen synthesis)
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Peptides
Conflicts
- Extreme pH levels below 3.5 or above 8.0
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High thermal processing (>50°C)
Safety
Safety Profile
Recognized as safe within the general category of plant-fermented filtrates by the CIR; listed in EU CosIng and Japanese Quasi-drug directories.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance biotech ingredient that delivers scientifically-validated improvements to hydration, barrier function, and collagen density.
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References
Sources