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ASPERGILLUS/RICE/RICE BRAN FERMENT FILTRATE.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A nutrient-dense bioactive liquid produced through the fermentation of rice and rice bran by the Koji mold, Aspergillus oryzae. This process transforms simple starches into a complex cocktail of organic acids, amino acids, and enzymes that enhance skin resilience and luminosity.

barrier repair humectant skin brightening antioxidant collagen support

Science

Operates through a multi-pathway approach: it upregulates mRNA expression of Aquaporin 3 for water transport and Filaggrin for barrier integrity while stimulating Hyaluronan Synthase 1 (HAS1) for internal hydration. Additionally, it exerts brightening effects by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and neutralizes oxidative stress via fermented phenolic compounds like kojic and lactic acids.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.014–3%
Optimal

1.25%

Key findings

  1. 01 Concentrations as low as 0.0142% demonstrate up to 18.4% inhibition of melanin synthesis for brightening.
  2. 02 A 1.25% inclusion significantly increases mRNA expression of hydration-critical proteins AQP3, FLG, and HAS1.
  3. 03 At 3.0%, the filtrate improves AQP3 and FLG protein levels by 71% and 51% respectively, while promoting dermal fibroblast proliferation for structural anti-aging.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.1%

While brightening benefits begin at extremely low levels (<0.1%), the significant barrier-strengthening and fibroblast-stimulating benefits require concentrations between 1.25% and 3.0%. Products listing this as a 'hero' ingredient at less than 1% are likely capitalizing on the name without providing structural skin benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable at room temperature in aqueous solutions. It is heat-sensitive and must be incorporated during the cooling phase below 45°C to maintain the integrity of its bioactive enzymes.

Synergies

  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Vitamin C
  • Panthenol

Conflicts

  • High heat (>45°C)
  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Extreme pH environments (<4.0 or >8.0)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
90.7%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Aspergillus oryzae is a GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) organism. The ferment is non-irritating and suitable for long-term use in concentrations up to 90%.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-performance biotech ingredient that bridges the gap between deep hydration and pigmentation control, provided it is used at therapeutic levels above 1.25%.


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