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Moumoujus

ASPERGILLUS/PRUNUS YEDOENSIS LEAF FERMENT EXTRACT.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A sophisticated biotechnological ingredient derived from Japanese Cherry leaves fermented with Aspergillus fungi to unlock potent bio-actives. This precision extract excels at soothing inflammatory responses while simultaneously reinforcing the skin's moisture barrier and structural elasticity.

Summary

skin-conditioning soothing antioxidant moisturizing anti-glycation

Science

Mechanism of Action

The Aspergillus fermentation process enzymatically converts complex plant proteins and polysaccharides into bioavailable amino acids and peptides. Once applied, these small-molecule actives neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inhibit tyrosinase to brighten the complexion. Furthermore, it suppresses pro-inflammatory cytokines like IL-6 and TNF-alpha while inhibiting elastase and collagenase (MMP-1) to protect the dermal matrix from degradation.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–2%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 4-week clinical trial demonstrated that a 1.0% concentration significantly elevated skin hydration levels and improved viscoelasticity compared to a placebo.
  2. 02 In-vitro analysis at 2.0% showed a marked reduction in Nitric Oxide and PGE2 inflammatory mediators, alongside the inhibition of UV-induced MMP-1 expression.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.1%

While many formulas list 'Cherry Blossom Extract' for marketing appeal, clinical benefits for hydration and elasticity are only substantiated at concentrations of 1.0% or higher. Presence at the very bottom of the INCI list often indicates 'label dusting' without functional efficacy.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

The extract is highly stable in aqueous systems but is thermolabile; it must be incorporated during the cooling phase (below 40°C) to preserve the integrity of the fermented peptides.

Synergies

  • Niacinamide (for enhanced brightening)
  • Hyaluronic Acid (for synergistic moisture retention)
  • UV Filters (for boosted photo-protection)

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Extremely acidic (pH < 3.0) or alkaline (pH > 8.0) environments

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Validated by the 2024 CIR Safety Assessment of Yeast-Derived Ingredients as non-sensitizing and safe for topical cosmetic application.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A high-performance multifunctional ferment that provides scientifically backed soothing, hydration, and matrix protection for all skin types.

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References

Sources