Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates through a multi-stage bio-transformation; Aspergillus first breaks down complex plant structures, followed by Lactobacillus which acidifies the environment to stabilize polyphenols. It inhibits tyrosinase activity to curtail melanin production while stimulating oxygen uptake and collagen synthesis to fortify the dermal matrix.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 In vivo testing showed a 47% reduction in cutaneous redness using a 5% concentration of related ferment filtrates.
- 02 In vitro analysis at 1000 ug/mL demonstrated approximately 50% tyrosinase inhibition, confirming potent brightening capability.
- 03 Clinical trials on dual-fermented tea (Goishicha) formulations confirmed significant improvements in both transepidermal water loss and internal skin barrier resilience.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because fermentation extracts sound appealing for marketing, many brands include them at negligible levels (under 0.5%) for 'label claims.' To see measurable improvements in redness and barrier function, concentrations between 1% and 5% are scientifically required.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Naturally stable in acidic environments (pH 3.2-3.5). It is thermolabile and must be incorporated during the cooling phase below 40°C to protect delicate bioactive peptides.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Alkaline environments (pH > 8.0)
- Sustained high heat (>50°C)
Safety
Safety Profile
Classified as safe by the CIR for topical use; the fermentation process often reduces the allergenic potential of raw botanical extracts.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A precision-engineered botanical ferment that excels at reducing redness and inhibiting pigmentation while supporting long-term barrier health.
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References
Sources