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ASPERGILLUS/LACTOBACILLUS/APHANIZOMENON FLOS-AQUAE/RICE SEED EXTRACT FERMENT FILTRATE.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A high-precision biotechnological complex that utilizes a multi-stage fermentation of blue-green algae and rice to create a nutrient-dense skin conditioner. This bio-active filtrate delivers a potent blend of phycocyanin antioxidants and essential minerals with superior bioavailability.

skin-conditioning emollient humectant antioxidant textural-refiner

Science

This ingredient utilizes a dual-fermentation process where Aspergillus breaks down rice starches into brightening organic acids, while Lactobacillus supports the skin's microbiome via antimicrobial peptides. The Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae (AFA) fraction functions as a 'natural retinoid' by stimulating keratinocyte differentiation, effectively smoothing skin texture and reducing fine lines without the cellular stress or irritation associated with traditional Vitamin A.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical evaluation of the AFA component at 3% demonstrated a 58% reduction in wrinkle depth and a 63% improvement in skin surface smoothness within 21 days.
  2. 02 Research on bio-fermented rice extracts at 1-5% indicates a 20% increase in epidermal hydration and significant barrier reinforcement through the up-regulation of filaggrin and involucrin.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Due to its complex INCI name and marketing appeal as a 'natural retinoid,' this ingredient is frequently included in formulations at sub-clinical levels (<1%) simply for label claims. For meaningful texture refinement, concentrations should meet the 3% clinical benchmark.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Thermolabile; must be incorporated into the cool-down phase below 40°C to maintain the integrity of bio-active enzymes and proteins.

Synergies

  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Ceramides
  • Bakuchiol

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Extreme pH environments (<3.0 or >8.0)
  • Processing temperatures exceeding 40°C

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
100%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While the complex itself is pending a formal CIR monograph, its constituent ferments and extracts are recognized as safe by the EU CosIng database. It is an excellent alternative for those who cannot tolerate synthetic retinoids during pregnancy.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-performance multifunctional ferment that bridges the gap between hydration and retinoid-like resurfacing without compromising skin barrier integrity.


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