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ASPERGILLUS/CASTANEA CRENATA PELLICLE FERMENT EXTRACT FILTRATE.

Valuable CAS - / HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

A bio-transformed botanical extract derived from the inner skin (pellicle) of the Japanese chestnut, refined through fermentation with Aspergillus oryzae. This process unlocks potent phenolic compounds that deliver multi-targeted protection against photoaging and structural protein degradation.

Antioxidant Skin conditioning Brightening agent MMP inhibitor Anti-elastase

Science

This ferment functions by liberating bioavailable phenolic acids—specifically gallic, ellagic, and ferulic acids—which inhibit Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs) like elastase and gelatinase to protect the extracellular matrix. Additionally, the fermentation process naturally generates kojic acid, which suppresses tyrosinase activity to prevent melanin overproduction and uneven skin tone.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vitro testing of the commercial filtrate (Marrongent) demonstrated a 76.73% inhibition of elastase and a 101.01% inhibition of tyrosinase, highlighting its dual capacity to preserve skin elasticity and improve clarity.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Given its efficacy is validated at 1.0% or higher, many mass-market formulations include it at 'label claim' levels (below 0.1%) where it functions merely as a conditioning agent rather than a functional anti-aging active.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable in water-based systems. To maintain the integrity of the fermented bioactives, it should be incorporated into the aqueous phase or added during the cooling phase of emulsions at temperatures below 40°C.

Synergies

  • Vitamin C
  • Niacinamide
  • Sunscreen filters

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • pH levels below 3.0
  • pH levels above 8.0

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The fermentation agent, Aspergillus oryzae, is FDA-classified as GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe). The extract is well-tolerated with no reported adverse effects in topical applications.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A high-performance fermented active that bridges the gap between traditional herbalism and precision biotechnology to combat collagen loss and hyperpigmentation.


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