Science
Mechanism of Action
The fermentation process transforms complex chestnut polyphenols into bioavailable molecules like Gallic, Ellagic, and Kojic acids. These actives function by neutralizing oxidative stress and inhibiting elastase and gelatinase—the enzymes responsible for the breakdown of the skin's elastic fibers—while simultaneously upregulating the production of fibronectin and vitronectin to strengthen cell-to-matrix adhesion.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro analysis demonstrates an 80.53% reduction in DPPH radicals and over 76% inhibition of elastase enzymes.
- 02 Testing confirms significant enhancement in the expression of adhesion molecules in human fibroblasts, improving overall skin firmness.
- 03 Demonstrated 101.01% tyrosinase inhibition, suggesting powerful potential for managing hyperpigmentation.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its exotic name and botanical origin, this ingredient is often included at 'label-claim' levels (below 0.1%) in mass-market products. At Moumoujus, we recognize that its structural and antioxidant benefits require a minimum threshold of 1.0% to impact fibroblast activity effectively.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Thermolabile; must be incorporated into formulas during the cooling phase at temperatures below 40°C to preserve the integrity of the fermented bioactive compounds.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Peptides
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Extreme pH environments (<3.5 or >8.0)
- High heat processing
Safety
Safety Profile
While not yet formally reviewed by the CIR, its fermentation source (Aspergillus) is classified as GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe). It is considered non-toxic and well-tolerated in topical applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance fermented active that provides multifaceted protection against collagen degradation while actively promoting skin density and brightness.
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