Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through several key mechanisms to optimize skin health. Its Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) absorb solar energy, providing effective photoprotection against harmful rays. Algal proteins contribute antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, while the unique 'Ysaline' component provides antiseptic properties, fortifying the skin's natural defense against surface bacteria and purifying for blemish reduction. Seaweed fibers strengthen skin structure by inhibiting elastase, promoting firmness and anti-aging effects. Additionally, it stimulates cell renewal, offers re-mineralizing benefits, boosts microcirculation, and acts as a highly hygroscopic humectant, making skin smooth and supple. The extract also demonstrates anti-Cutibacterium acnes activity, reduces nitric oxide production for anti-inflammatory support in acne treatment, and helps mitigate 'contagious aging' by regulating the 'Senescence Messaging Secretome'.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceup to 0.01%
Key findings
- 01 Inhibited up to 48% of Nitric Oxide (NO) production, indicating anti-inflammatory effects in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells at concentrations below 0.01%, noted as non-cytotoxic.
- 02 Maintained high human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell viability, ranging from 89.7% to 100.4%, with hydroethanolic crude extracts.
- 03 Inhibition of 43.20 ± 2.58% of elastase activity was observed in vitro; however, this concentration is above the generally recognized limit for low cytotoxicity.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While Asparagopsis Armata Extract exhibits beneficial properties at low concentrations, in vitro studies indicate that cytotoxicity significantly increases at concentrations exceeding 0.01%. Strong cytotoxic effects have been observed at 0.1% for certain ethanol extracts and organic fractions. Therefore, formulations utilizing concentrations above 0.01% should be critically evaluated for safety and potential adverse effects.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal pH range for product stability is between 4.5 and 5.5.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has determined that data are insufficient to ascertain the safety of Asparagopsis Armata Extract in cosmetics. Acute oral toxicity studies in rats indicated an LD50 > 2000 mg/kg for a 100% dry extract. In vitro studies generally show low cytotoxicity in various cell lines (3T3, RAW264.7, HaCaT) at concentrations up to 0.01% (0.1 mg/mL). However, concentrations of 0.1% (1 mg/mL) for an ethanol extract, and between 0.01% (0.1 mg/mL) and 0.2% (2 mg/mL) for some organic fractions, led to strong or high cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells. Methanolic and dichloromethane extracts at 0.1% (1000 µg/mL) also demonstrated high cytotoxicity in HepG-2 cells. EWG Skin Deep rates the ingredient as 'LOW' for allergies & immunotoxicity.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Asparagopsis Armata Extract is a valuable ingredient offering diverse benefits including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, but its safe and effective concentration requires careful adherence to a maximum of 0.01% due to potential cytotoxicity at higher levels.
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References
Sources