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ARACHIDIC ACID.

Valuable CAS 506-30-9 / CLEANSING, OPACIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A skin-identical, long-chain saturated fatty acid that serves as a fundamental structural component of the skin's lipid barrier. This lipid is essential for maintaining a healthy, resilient complexion by reinforcing the spaces between skin cells to prevent moisture loss.

barrier repair emollient skin-identical lipid occlusive emulsifier

Science

Arachidic acid integrates directly into the stratum corneum's lamellar structure, acting as an emollient and occlusive shield. It functions in synergy with ceramides and cholesterol to repair the intercellular lipid matrix, effectively sealing in hydration and providing a physical defense against environmental stressors.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–2%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Vital for restoring the lamellar structure of the stratum corneum when utilized in a physiological 3:1:1 ratio alongside ceramides and cholesterol.
  2. 02 Demonstrated high biocompatibility in 3D skin models with zero observed phototoxicity or irritation, confirming its suitability for reactive skin.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

While safe at very low levels (0.065%), clinical barrier repair benefits are most prominent at concentrations above 0.1%. Formulas listing it at the very bottom of the deck may only be using it for emulsification rather than active barrier restoration.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4.5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Requires heating to approximately 75°C during the oil phase. It is highly stable against oxidation compared to unsaturated fatty acids, though airtight packaging is preferred.

Synergies

  • Ceramides
  • Cholesterol
  • Phytosphingosine

Conflicts

  • Strong bases
  • Cationic surfactants
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
0.065%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The 0.065% max concentration refers to current reported usage in facial preparations, though the CIR notes higher concentrations are safe based on data from similar fatty acids.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An essential skin-native lipid for barrier reconstruction, particularly effective when formulated in precise ratios with ceramides and cholesterol.


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References