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Moumoujus

APRICOT KERNEL OIL POLYGLYCERYL-3 ESTERS.

Valuable CAS - / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A sophisticated lipid-restoring ester that merges the nutrient-dense fatty acid profile of apricot oil with advanced surfactant technology. It serves as a multifunctional emollient and co-emulsifier that enhances product texture while reinforcing the cutaneous moisture barrier.

Summary

Emollient Surfactant Emulsifying agent Skin-conditioning agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

This amphiphilic molecule utilizes the high oleic and linoleic acid content of Prunus Armeniaca kernel oil to replenish essential skin lipids and minimize transepidermal water loss (TEWL). By combining these lipids with a polyglycerol moiety, it creates a stable bridge between oil and water phases, allowing for smoother delivery of actives and improved skin-feel without the heaviness of raw oils.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–10%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Safety Assessment (2016) evaluating 274 polyglyceryl fatty acid esters for safety and non-sensitization.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

As a functional emollient and co-emulsifier, it is typically used at concentrations above 1% to achieve meaningful textural and barrier benefits; lower amounts may indicate its use primarily for label claims.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Prone to hydrolysis into polyglycerin and fatty acids if exposed to extreme pH levels or sustained high temperatures in aqueous systems; optimal stability is found in anhydrous or well-structured emulsions.

Synergies

  • Natural plant oils
  • Non-ionic surfactants
  • Glycerin-based humectants

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Strong mineral acids
  • Strong bases
  • Cationic surfactants

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Generally recognized as biocompatible due to its breakdown into naturally occurring glycerol and fatty acids upon absorption.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Moderate

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An excellent precision ingredient for dry and sensitive skin types that provides both structural formulation benefits and lipid-barrier support.

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References

Sources