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APRICOT KERNEL OIL PEG-40 ESTERS.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A sophisticated, multifunctional derivative of apricot kernel oil that combines the deep conditioning properties of natural lipids with the high-performance functionality of a water-soluble surfactant. This ingredient serves as a bridge between oil and water phases, allowing for the creation of elegant, non-greasy textures that effectively cleanse while replenishing the skin barrier.

Emollient Emulsifying agent Surfactant Solubilizer

Science

This ingredient functions through a dual-action molecular structure. The polyethylene glycol (PEG) chain provides hydrophilic properties that reduce surface tension for effective cleansing and solubilization of actives. Simultaneously, the apricot kernel oil component delivers essential oleic and linoleic fatty acids that integrate into the stratum corneum, reinforcing the lipid matrix and significantly reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–40%
Optimal

20%

Key findings

  1. 01 Comprehensive industry assessment confirmed no systemic toxicity or sensitization across standard usage levels.
  2. 02 Clinical evaluation of structurally analogous PEG-40 esters demonstrated zero irritation to both dermal and ocular tissues.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

While often used at low levels as a solubilizer (0.5-2%), it is rarely 'dusted' because it serves a clear functional purpose in stabilization; however, for active barrier replenishment or as a primary cleanser, concentrations should ideally exceed 5%.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Possesses a high HLB value of approximately 13, making it an excellent solubilizer for essential oils and fragrance in aqueous systems. It exhibits a 'cloud point' effect where water solubility may decrease at elevated temperatures.

Synergies

  • Lipophilic vitamins
  • Essential fatty acids
  • Mild surfactants

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High electrolyte concentrations

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
40%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Purity is paramount; Moumoujus standards require 1,4-dioxane levels to be strictly monitored below 1 ppm to ensure maximum safety.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptionally versatile ingredient that enables the formulation of high-clarity aqueous products without sacrificing the nourishing benefits of plant-based lipids.


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References