Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through two primary pathways: it inhibits Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) to prevent the enzymatic degradation of collagen fibers, and it stimulates the expression of SVCT-1 transporters. By upregulating these transporters, the extract facilitates the delivery of Vitamin C into skin fibroblasts, fueling the synthesis of new collagen.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 In vivo testing of a 2% concentration demonstrated a 25% reduction in wrinkle depth over a 28-day period with twice-daily application.
- 02 In vitro data indicates a 104% increase in Vitamin C incorporation into fibroblasts via SVCT-1 upregulation.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While often included in 'clean' or botanical-focused marketing, concentrations below 0.5% are unlikely to provide the collagen-protective benefits seen in clinical trials. A 2% concentration is the benchmark for visible wrinkle reduction.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract is highly stable in emulsions within its optimal pH range; however, it is sensitive to alkaline environments (pH > 8.0) which can degrade its polyphenolic compounds.
Synergies
- Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid and derivatives)
- Antioxidants
- Peptides
Conflicts
- High pH formulations
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
Generally regarded as safe based on traditional medicinal use and an LD50 > 5000 mg/kg; it also carries Ecocert and COSMOS certifications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An scientifically-backed botanical powerhouse that provides measurable improvements in skin density and wrinkle depth when formulated at active concentrations.
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References
Sources