Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract functions via a multi-pathway approach: it optimizes the transport of Vitamin C into fibroblasts to stimulate collagen production while simultaneously inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-2 and MMP-9) which break down the dermal matrix. Furthermore, it protects fibrillin-1—a glycoprotein essential for elastic fiber integrity—and inhibits tyrosinase activity to modulate melanin production and brighten the complexion.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 A 14-day in vivo study involving 19 participants demonstrated that a 2% concentration significantly reduced visible wrinkle depth compared to a placebo.
- 02 In vitro trials confirmed the extract increases Vitamin C incorporation into skin cells, effectively maintaining the dermo-epidermal junction and collagen density.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is a potent botanical, many brands include it at 'label claim' amounts (below 0.1%) to leverage its exotic name. However, clinical data suggests a minimum of 0.5% is required for biological impact on Vitamin C uptake, with 2.0% being the benchmark for rapid anti-wrinkle results.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract is highly hygroscopic and requires a slightly acidic environment to ensure the stability of its polyphenol content. It remains stable for over 6 months under standardized conditions.
Synergies
- L-Ascorbic Acid (increases cellular uptake)
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
- Hyaluronic Acid
Conflicts
- Iron salts (causes darkening/discoloration)
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High pH environments (>7.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
Historically used in traditional medicine with high systemic tolerance; it is considered non-irritating and non-sensitizing in topical applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A precision botanical that bridges the gap between traditional plant extracts and high-tech actives by specifically enhancing the efficacy of Vitamin C.
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References
Sources