Science
Mechanism of Action
Primarily, it works through dihydromyricetin, inhibiting NF-κB p65 phosphorylation and the NLRP3 inflammasome pathway to reduce pro-inflammatory cytokines. It also acts as a potent antioxidant by scavenging DPPH radicals and decreasing intracellular ROS.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2024), 25(1), 416
- 02 US Patent 9,925,136 B2
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
No specific data indicates this ingredient is commonly dusted, and supplier recommendations align with beneficial concentrations for topical use.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract contains dihydromyricetin, poorly soluble in cold water but soluble in hot water and ethanol. It is sensitive to pH above 7.0 and oxidation, often requiring glycols or encapsulation for stability.
Synergies
- Albizia julibrissin (for NMF induction and barrier improvement)
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High alkaline conditions (pH > 7.0)
- Iron ions (can cause color shifting/complexation with flavonoids)
Safety
Safety Profile
Although not formally reviewed by the CIR, this extract has a long history of safe use in traditional Chinese medicine (Vine Tea). Cosmetic suppliers generally recommend usage between 0.1% and 1.0% for topical applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This extract is a valuable ingredient for its powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types and concerns.
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References
Sources